Hey Everyone,
The news is out- I'm back in the States! I made a surprise appearance at the UCSD graduation ceremony and can no longer keep my return a secret. I'll be "around" for the summer, mostly in California, but continuing to be somewhat of a migrant.
I passed through 6 airports in 35 hours to get back- and barely in time to avoid the rainy season in Uganda. My last two nights in Kampala I got rained out of my tent, and my bags were soaked through with mud. It's good to be home- my first 24 hours home I took 4 showers and left a ring around the tub each time :) I made it back safely, though it took several days for my baggage to arrive, which is fine because it was all filthy clothing anyway. I washed it twice and let it suffice to say that I will never travel with a white shirt again.
Next up for the Great Ape Adventurer: The International Primatological Society congress in Edinburgh the first week of August, a gathering of primate researchers from around the world presenting their work. I'll soon after be heading to the University of St Andrews in Scotland for my PhD. I will continue learning about the great apes (and other primates!), continue traveling the globe, and continue having wild adventures!
Thanks to everyone who enjoyed reading my emails and blog, your responses were always appreciated even if I couldn't get back to you.
Have a great summer!
Katie Hall
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Hakuna Matata in Kenya
Jambo!
Sorry I left you all hanging with my pictures but no explanation! I just finished an action-packed tour through all the sights and scenery of Kenya, from the vibrant, bustling capital of Nairobi, to the serenity of misty Mt. Kenya, to a traditional and colorful Maasai village, and of course, to the vast expanse of the African plains, replete with wildlife.
The environment here is completely different from the forest in Uganda- I only wish I could jump out of the vehicle and run free through the tall dry grass as the zebra and giraffes do. Then I have to remind myself that lions and hyena also run around here. So maybe next time, after they invent predator-repellent. As you all know, insect repellent didn't do me much good...so it might be a while before this dream becomes a reality. Perhaps if I wore a bright red shawl, as the Maasai herders wear, and traveled with my 150 cattle I would be safer, but this would involve acquiring some cattle.
Anyway, back to the story. In Kenya, everything is very convenient (flushing toilets! running water!)- even all the important Swahili phrases are arranged neatly into a catchy little song that I cant stop humming. On the night of my arrival, not-so-fresh off of the 12 hour bus ride from Uganda, I was happy to finally scrub some dirt out from under my nails.
Among the long list of activities we covered in the day in Nairobi, I'd have to say our short trip to the National Museum takes the cake. The museum has just reopened following years of renovations, and we had a private tour through the "hominid skeleton" room. There were several skulls and skull casts of very early hominids, from australopithecus afarensis, to homo erectus, even a few others I had never heard of (shouldnt have skipped class that one time...) but it was interesting to see the progression of the size and shape of the brain case and relating structures and to ponder the environmental pressures and genetics that eventually led to our current brain size.
Though the highlight of the entire trip was without a doubt the animal viewing opportunities. In Amboseli national park, I spent hours surrounded by a herd of 50 elephants (there are about 1500 total in the park, so they are never far away). I enjoyed watching them slowly march across the plain towards the marshes, then as the young ones learned to use their trunks to sip and spray water, as well as pick up sticks and twirl them like marching band leaders.
The tour took me through Mt Kenya, though we didn't climb it. After sitting in the car for so many days, after averaging 20 km of walking each day, I was about to lose my mind! I was hoping to run around the mountain but unless we had a paid guide, we were not permitted off hotel property. Now what is it about having to pay people to allow me to walk everywhere I go? So Shannon and I snuck off the property with an armed guard (in case a forest elephant charged) and walked 8 km, a nice retreat to at least build an appetite for dinner.
I spent the night at Sweetwaters, in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, which is a tented camp overlooking a very popular watering hole. It was so fun to watch a 'journey' of giraffes splay their legs awkwardly to drink the water, wildebeest lock horns, and several warthogs run around with their tails in the air, and stop short as if they forgot where and why they were running to in such a hurry.
We visited a huge roadside curio shop for souvenirs, and even though you can bargain down the prices, its amazing what you get sucked into buying. So when our tour guide kept repeating that the next activity would be to visit an orphanage, I thought- "Is this some sick joke?" But in actuality we visited an animal orphanage, which was the most fun of the entire trip. Imagine a petting zoo of your childhood; now replace ponies with buffalo, goats with wildebeest, and chickens with ostrich. And dont forget the cheetah, suni, caracal, eland, pygmy hippo, and patas monkeys.
The young man who showed us around the lot, Peter, was our source of several peals of laughter. I couldn't contain myself as I watched him giggle like a 4 year old as he tickled the baby warthog, Chuckie. "Chuckie! Chuckie! Does it tickle?" He kept calling in his slightly nasally voice, interrupted by his own laughs and snorts. I also almost fell over laughing with Shannon. Lynn, the baby wildebeest, is a very headstrong (haha) individual, and enjoyed play-butting all the visitors. But Shannon of course didnt want the sharp horns poking her, so grabbed onto them for better control. Well, wildebeest are basically programmed to exhibit fighting postures and behaviors when their horns are locked like this, and the butting only increased. When you have the bull by the horns- what do you do? If you hold on, their desire to fight increases; if you let go, they will surely poke you; at what point should you let go? So as I am still catching my breath over the ticklish Chuckie, I hear Shannon's faint voice over the laughter- "Peter? Peter? I think the wildebeest is trying to impale me." We look over as she is feebly trying to maneuver herself out of this tricky situation, and Peter jumps in and grabs the horns so she can escape. This only leads to more laughter.
At the Maasai Mara, the game viewing is incredible. Our first night, the sun set over a pride of 5 female lions and 4 cubs feasting on an elephant carcass. We got within 30 feet of the crime scene and watched the cubs play "king of the mountain" as they danced over the elephant's body. We were close enough to hear the flesh tearing as the females gorged themselves. We had seen 4 of the "Big 5" so far- Buffalo, Rhino, Elephant, and Lion. The elusive leopard had escaped us narrowly before. So on our last game drive of the tour we were determined to see it. We circled the small patch of bush known to be her hunting grounds for quite some time, and our driver was ready to give up when I saw a black-tipped tail swish behind a tree. "I see it!! Stop the car!" We sat for several minutes before everyone in the car could make out the pattern against the leaves and rocks of the habitat. Leopards are SO well camouflaged, I thought I saw at least 30 before I actually saw the real thing. But there she was, majestic and relaxed. A cub was nearby eating an antelope, but was even more difficult to see- I didnt even realize it was there until after about 10 minutes of watching the mother. We also saw a vulture eating an antelope, and it was hilarious to see the "landing pattern" in the sky of all the other birds of prey circling down to get a bite. But of course the birds were so busy defending their piece of the catch that they didnt notice two jackals sneak in and slip away with their meal.
At the end of the day, we were surprised with a roaring bonfire at the hilltop overlooking a gorgeous sunset, and a small table with wine, beer, and other drinks on offer. What a treat!
If you havent seen the photos yet, check out my album on Webshots (and I have added more since last time, including lions and leopards): http://community.webshots.com/user/MsKatieHall
I'll be home soon....
-Katie Hall
Sorry I left you all hanging with my pictures but no explanation! I just finished an action-packed tour through all the sights and scenery of Kenya, from the vibrant, bustling capital of Nairobi, to the serenity of misty Mt. Kenya, to a traditional and colorful Maasai village, and of course, to the vast expanse of the African plains, replete with wildlife.
The environment here is completely different from the forest in Uganda- I only wish I could jump out of the vehicle and run free through the tall dry grass as the zebra and giraffes do. Then I have to remind myself that lions and hyena also run around here. So maybe next time, after they invent predator-repellent. As you all know, insect repellent didn't do me much good...so it might be a while before this dream becomes a reality. Perhaps if I wore a bright red shawl, as the Maasai herders wear, and traveled with my 150 cattle I would be safer, but this would involve acquiring some cattle.
Anyway, back to the story. In Kenya, everything is very convenient (flushing toilets! running water!)- even all the important Swahili phrases are arranged neatly into a catchy little song that I cant stop humming. On the night of my arrival, not-so-fresh off of the 12 hour bus ride from Uganda, I was happy to finally scrub some dirt out from under my nails.
Among the long list of activities we covered in the day in Nairobi, I'd have to say our short trip to the National Museum takes the cake. The museum has just reopened following years of renovations, and we had a private tour through the "hominid skeleton" room. There were several skulls and skull casts of very early hominids, from australopithecus afarensis, to homo erectus, even a few others I had never heard of (shouldnt have skipped class that one time...) but it was interesting to see the progression of the size and shape of the brain case and relating structures and to ponder the environmental pressures and genetics that eventually led to our current brain size.
Though the highlight of the entire trip was without a doubt the animal viewing opportunities. In Amboseli national park, I spent hours surrounded by a herd of 50 elephants (there are about 1500 total in the park, so they are never far away). I enjoyed watching them slowly march across the plain towards the marshes, then as the young ones learned to use their trunks to sip and spray water, as well as pick up sticks and twirl them like marching band leaders.
The tour took me through Mt Kenya, though we didn't climb it. After sitting in the car for so many days, after averaging 20 km of walking each day, I was about to lose my mind! I was hoping to run around the mountain but unless we had a paid guide, we were not permitted off hotel property. Now what is it about having to pay people to allow me to walk everywhere I go? So Shannon and I snuck off the property with an armed guard (in case a forest elephant charged) and walked 8 km, a nice retreat to at least build an appetite for dinner.
I spent the night at Sweetwaters, in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, which is a tented camp overlooking a very popular watering hole. It was so fun to watch a 'journey' of giraffes splay their legs awkwardly to drink the water, wildebeest lock horns, and several warthogs run around with their tails in the air, and stop short as if they forgot where and why they were running to in such a hurry.
We visited a huge roadside curio shop for souvenirs, and even though you can bargain down the prices, its amazing what you get sucked into buying. So when our tour guide kept repeating that the next activity would be to visit an orphanage, I thought- "Is this some sick joke?" But in actuality we visited an animal orphanage, which was the most fun of the entire trip. Imagine a petting zoo of your childhood; now replace ponies with buffalo, goats with wildebeest, and chickens with ostrich. And dont forget the cheetah, suni, caracal, eland, pygmy hippo, and patas monkeys.
The young man who showed us around the lot, Peter, was our source of several peals of laughter. I couldn't contain myself as I watched him giggle like a 4 year old as he tickled the baby warthog, Chuckie. "Chuckie! Chuckie! Does it tickle?" He kept calling in his slightly nasally voice, interrupted by his own laughs and snorts. I also almost fell over laughing with Shannon. Lynn, the baby wildebeest, is a very headstrong (haha) individual, and enjoyed play-butting all the visitors. But Shannon of course didnt want the sharp horns poking her, so grabbed onto them for better control. Well, wildebeest are basically programmed to exhibit fighting postures and behaviors when their horns are locked like this, and the butting only increased. When you have the bull by the horns- what do you do? If you hold on, their desire to fight increases; if you let go, they will surely poke you; at what point should you let go? So as I am still catching my breath over the ticklish Chuckie, I hear Shannon's faint voice over the laughter- "Peter? Peter? I think the wildebeest is trying to impale me." We look over as she is feebly trying to maneuver herself out of this tricky situation, and Peter jumps in and grabs the horns so she can escape. This only leads to more laughter.
At the Maasai Mara, the game viewing is incredible. Our first night, the sun set over a pride of 5 female lions and 4 cubs feasting on an elephant carcass. We got within 30 feet of the crime scene and watched the cubs play "king of the mountain" as they danced over the elephant's body. We were close enough to hear the flesh tearing as the females gorged themselves. We had seen 4 of the "Big 5" so far- Buffalo, Rhino, Elephant, and Lion. The elusive leopard had escaped us narrowly before. So on our last game drive of the tour we were determined to see it. We circled the small patch of bush known to be her hunting grounds for quite some time, and our driver was ready to give up when I saw a black-tipped tail swish behind a tree. "I see it!! Stop the car!" We sat for several minutes before everyone in the car could make out the pattern against the leaves and rocks of the habitat. Leopards are SO well camouflaged, I thought I saw at least 30 before I actually saw the real thing. But there she was, majestic and relaxed. A cub was nearby eating an antelope, but was even more difficult to see- I didnt even realize it was there until after about 10 minutes of watching the mother. We also saw a vulture eating an antelope, and it was hilarious to see the "landing pattern" in the sky of all the other birds of prey circling down to get a bite. But of course the birds were so busy defending their piece of the catch that they didnt notice two jackals sneak in and slip away with their meal.
At the end of the day, we were surprised with a roaring bonfire at the hilltop overlooking a gorgeous sunset, and a small table with wine, beer, and other drinks on offer. What a treat!
If you havent seen the photos yet, check out my album on Webshots (and I have added more since last time, including lions and leopards): http://community.webshots.com
I'll be home soon....
-Katie Hall
Thursday, May 29, 2008
PHOTOS!! (finally)
No time to write of my most recent adventures, so let the pictures tell the story: http://community.webshots.com/user/MsKatieHall
Check out gorillas in Uganda, pictures of Rwanda, and wildlife photos in Kenya; you may need to set aside an hour or two to enjoy them all!
Check out gorillas in Uganda, pictures of Rwanda, and wildlife photos in Kenya; you may need to set aside an hour or two to enjoy them all!
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Muzungu in the Mist
Hey Everyone!!
Since the end of the research project, my travels have taken me south through Uganda and Rwanda. For those who have been asking, I'm not home yet! (I'll be back in July).
My first destination was the Rwenzori mountains in Uganda, also known as the "Mountains of the Moon." We stayed at the scenic Ruboni community camp, and as Shannon described it, "It's like walking into a fairy tale!" The beautiful mountain backdrop with snowy peaks, the clean rivers, the serene lake, and the friendly, colorful people made Ruboni seem like heaven on earth. I wish we could have stayed longer. We took a wonderful guided hike up the side of the hill (very steep! 2km straight up), and back down through the forest. Our guide, Aprunale, was very knowledgeable and showed us male and female specimens of the 3-horned chameleon endemic only to the Rwenzori mountain range. The hike through the forest crossed over a few rivers, and we had to cross wooden bridges Indiana Jones- style, how fun!
We had quite an adventure reaching our next destination, Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth National Park. First, we walked 3 km in the rain carrying 75 pounds of gear to the next town, where we had missed the bus by about an hour. So, we hopped on motorcycles and rode down the mountain to Kasese, the nearest "city" (I call it that because buses actually go there). From Kasese, we caught a bus to Katunguru, where we had hoped to hire a car to take us into the national park, but the bus dropped us off at this dusty abandoned intersection, with only one car around, not much choice. So, we hopped on the back of a pickup truck with 25 other people (no joke) and bounced down the bumpiest road in the country for 70 km to our destination, 3 1/2 hours later. Then of course, we were at the gate of the national park, with no way to get in, so the driver of the pickup called his buddy to take us for a game drive. It quickly became clear that he did not speak english, had never been into the park, knew nothing of animals, and had no sense of direction. All that aside, we did enjoy the game drive (though we didn't see the famed tree-climbing lions), and we made it safely to Bwindi, for the approximate price of $40. you get what you pay for!
In Bwindi, I had an amzing experience gorilla tracking! (stay tuned for pictures- internet too slow to post here) There are 24 permits available each day for tourists, but the day I went, only 6 people were present, so we split into two groups and had our own private gorilla viewing hour. Shannon and I decided to hike to the "far" group of gorillas, Habinyanja family, about a 3 hour hike to find the gorillas. It was a harder hike than the Rwenzoris, but definitely worth it! I was amazed at how magnificent (and large) the gorillas are, until the Silverback walked by and I was astonished- he's HUGE!! We watched him eat for a while, and as he walked off we heard him chest beating- a message to the others to follow him (not like King Kong, no violence at all). We watched the infants playing until our hour was up only too soon!
RWANDA- the land of a thousand hills, or the land where everyone looks like Don Cheadle. Rwanda is a surprisingly clean, organized, and orderly country; all the roads are paved and lined with flowers, and there is no trash anywhere! We first went to Parc National des Volcans, and hiked to the peak of Bisoke (about 3700 m), where there was a crater lake at the top in the center of the dead volcano. It was a muddy and misty hike. We were practically in the stratosphere; it was eerie to gaze out and see only mist and clouds, then as the wind blew, to see 1000 hills stretch ahead for miles.
We spent some time in Kigali to see the genocide memorial. It was very moving, with 250,000 victims buried there. The exhibits explained the history of conflict leading up to the 1994 genocide of Tutsis by Hutus. There were many photos of victims donated by their families (probably the only photo the family had), and there were video interviews of suvivors describing the struggles they endured, and continue to endure with the guilt of it all. The memorial was informative, but my conversations with locals really helped put it in perspective.
In Butare, the intellectual capital of the country, I met with some students at the university, Felix, Felix, and Norbert, and they discussed the current situation in Rwanda. People no longer distinguish themselves as Hutu/Tutsi/Twa, but all are Rwandans. Only foreigners still think of Hutu and Tutsi as valid categories, which does create tension, but the Rwandans are determined to move forward while remembering the past. Each town has a traditional court "gachacha" once a week to deal with the people accused of war crimes. It seems like good social healing, but it must be tough to live alongside those waiting trial for 15 years. The accused must wear pink, and the guilty wear orange, and work in the fields as punishment (death penalty has been eliminated for obvious reasons). Rwanda is no longer the war-stricken country recently portrayed by Hollywood; it is a beautiful, burgeoning place with a lot of pain, and a lot of insight into human struggle.
Next up: Kenya!
Please stay tuned for photographs, I wish I could upload them sooner, but internet is slow!
Love, Katie
Since the end of the research project, my travels have taken me south through Uganda and Rwanda. For those who have been asking, I'm not home yet! (I'll be back in July).
My first destination was the Rwenzori mountains in Uganda, also known as the "Mountains of the Moon." We stayed at the scenic Ruboni community camp, and as Shannon described it, "It's like walking into a fairy tale!" The beautiful mountain backdrop with snowy peaks, the clean rivers, the serene lake, and the friendly, colorful people made Ruboni seem like heaven on earth. I wish we could have stayed longer. We took a wonderful guided hike up the side of the hill (very steep! 2km straight up), and back down through the forest. Our guide, Aprunale, was very knowledgeable and showed us male and female specimens of the 3-horned chameleon endemic only to the Rwenzori mountain range. The hike through the forest crossed over a few rivers, and we had to cross wooden bridges Indiana Jones- style, how fun!
We had quite an adventure reaching our next destination, Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth National Park. First, we walked 3 km in the rain carrying 75 pounds of gear to the next town, where we had missed the bus by about an hour. So, we hopped on motorcycles and rode down the mountain to Kasese, the nearest "city" (I call it that because buses actually go there). From Kasese, we caught a bus to Katunguru, where we had hoped to hire a car to take us into the national park, but the bus dropped us off at this dusty abandoned intersection, with only one car around, not much choice. So, we hopped on the back of a pickup truck with 25 other people (no joke) and bounced down the bumpiest road in the country for 70 km to our destination, 3 1/2 hours later. Then of course, we were at the gate of the national park, with no way to get in, so the driver of the pickup called his buddy to take us for a game drive. It quickly became clear that he did not speak english, had never been into the park, knew nothing of animals, and had no sense of direction. All that aside, we did enjoy the game drive (though we didn't see the famed tree-climbing lions), and we made it safely to Bwindi, for the approximate price of $40. you get what you pay for!
In Bwindi, I had an amzing experience gorilla tracking! (stay tuned for pictures- internet too slow to post here) There are 24 permits available each day for tourists, but the day I went, only 6 people were present, so we split into two groups and had our own private gorilla viewing hour. Shannon and I decided to hike to the "far" group of gorillas, Habinyanja family, about a 3 hour hike to find the gorillas. It was a harder hike than the Rwenzoris, but definitely worth it! I was amazed at how magnificent (and large) the gorillas are, until the Silverback walked by and I was astonished- he's HUGE!! We watched him eat for a while, and as he walked off we heard him chest beating- a message to the others to follow him (not like King Kong, no violence at all). We watched the infants playing until our hour was up only too soon!
RWANDA- the land of a thousand hills, or the land where everyone looks like Don Cheadle. Rwanda is a surprisingly clean, organized, and orderly country; all the roads are paved and lined with flowers, and there is no trash anywhere! We first went to Parc National des Volcans, and hiked to the peak of Bisoke (about 3700 m), where there was a crater lake at the top in the center of the dead volcano. It was a muddy and misty hike. We were practically in the stratosphere; it was eerie to gaze out and see only mist and clouds, then as the wind blew, to see 1000 hills stretch ahead for miles.
We spent some time in Kigali to see the genocide memorial. It was very moving, with 250,000 victims buried there. The exhibits explained the history of conflict leading up to the 1994 genocide of Tutsis by Hutus. There were many photos of victims donated by their families (probably the only photo the family had), and there were video interviews of suvivors describing the struggles they endured, and continue to endure with the guilt of it all. The memorial was informative, but my conversations with locals really helped put it in perspective.
In Butare, the intellectual capital of the country, I met with some students at the university, Felix, Felix, and Norbert, and they discussed the current situation in Rwanda. People no longer distinguish themselves as Hutu/Tutsi/Twa, but all are Rwandans. Only foreigners still think of Hutu and Tutsi as valid categories, which does create tension, but the Rwandans are determined to move forward while remembering the past. Each town has a traditional court "gachacha" once a week to deal with the people accused of war crimes. It seems like good social healing, but it must be tough to live alongside those waiting trial for 15 years. The accused must wear pink, and the guilty wear orange, and work in the fields as punishment (death penalty has been eliminated for obvious reasons). Rwanda is no longer the war-stricken country recently portrayed by Hollywood; it is a beautiful, burgeoning place with a lot of pain, and a lot of insight into human struggle.
Next up: Kenya!
Please stay tuned for photographs, I wish I could upload them sooner, but internet is slow!
Love, Katie
Saturday, April 26, 2008
No more monkeys jumping on the bed!
Once again sorry for the delay in updates, I have been very busy working nonstop 12 days in a row. I have been up, down, and all around the Budongo Forest Reserve, experiencing the other sites where research on chimpanzees is taking place.
First, I visited Kaniyo-Pabidi, an ecotourism site. It is a gorgeous pristine forest with 87 chimps in the study group. The forest was so beautiful it was depressing to think of how degraded Kasokwa is. We could easily follow the chimps in the trees and on the ground, as the undergrowth is not very thick. I became fast friends with the field assistants Justin and Joyce. Not only did I enjoy the serenity in the forest, but I really appreciated a hot running water shower! :)
I also visited Sonso, the main research station in the forest. I had to do habitat work for Zinta, what most people consider "hardship duty." Habitat work involves making a 1 km transect, plotting points every 5o m. At each point, a GPS is taken, and all trees in a 12.7 m radius are identified and measured by diameter at breast height. It is tedious and dirty work, especially in the rain! I had to crawl under vines, over logs, through lantana, and wade through a swamp.
So after 2 days of this, it was a treat to go out with the Sonso chimps. They are so well habituated and trusting; a group of at least 8 individuals laid down on the ground within 30 feet of where I sat for an hour long nap.
It was also refreshing to be among the intellectual company of other researchers for a few days, and to escape the village gossip (see below). Tony described to me the challenges and excitement of being involved in the Chimp Health Monitoring Program; Anya vented frustration over the moisture ruining expensive camera equipment, and meanwhile Mario detailed the findings of several Theory of Mind studies done with ravens.
I enjoyed my little vacation, but it helped me realize there is not place like 'home' in Kibwona. Though the forest is really more of a scrap heap of trees not wanted by loggers overgrown with invasive lantana species, the chimps more of a textbook case study on population bottleneck than a thriving community, and the villagers more reliant on witchcraft, myth and alcohol than education, banks and healthcare, living in Kibwona has been an incomparable experiences most primate researchers (or most people from developed nations) never have the chance to enjoy.
How could I forget passing by a small gathering only to find out it was tha town council deliberating how to deal with a man intending to kill 9 people accused of witchcraft? Or hearing of the antics of Mama Roddin's crazy sister hopping on one leg naked though the village? Or my personal favorite- the gummy alcoholic who tried to sell me a bag of his teeth so he could afford to quench his thirst.
The chimps, too, have been memorable, and this past week has been one of the best yet. I am able to get closer to them when they are on the ground--I have witnessed who makes the teeth clacking noise while grooming, whosteals sugar cane from others (Komuntu in both cases; how sugar cane is processed and shared with offspring; I have learned to recognize some voices and distinct pant hoots (Abooki wanting to raid sugar cane, Kangeye fleeing from insistent suitors); and I have laughed a the infants' energetic and curious playfulness, to their mothers' chagrin.
Most recently I watched Ajabu hang upside down by his feet and fall repeatedly on top of his mother Kakono sleeping in their nest. When she left the nest looking perturbed, Ajabu had a huge smile on his face and began bouncing in the nest balanced delicately on the flexible branches, reminding me of myself jumping on the bed as a youngster. Though I must reiterate that chimpanzees are APES, not monkeys, it also brought to mind the familiar refrain "No more monkeys jumping on the bed."
As the research comes to a close, I am sad to leave these chimps behind, their future uncertain in this forest caught between multiple avenues of human disturbance-- logging, hunting, farming (not to mention the lack of gene flow...). Will Kakono live to see healthy grandchimpies bouncing around? Ruhara, whose first son burned to death while caught crop raiding, and whose second son's hand is mutating into a uselesss claw because of a wire tightly wound around his wrist, recently gave birth to another baby; will the third time be the charm for her?
While it is difficult not to despair, there is reason for hope as researchers collaborate to find a solution, as Roots & Shoots groups in the area learn more about conserving forest resources, and as people around the globe become more aware of their personal impact.
-Katie
First, I visited Kaniyo-Pabidi, an ecotourism site. It is a gorgeous pristine forest with 87 chimps in the study group. The forest was so beautiful it was depressing to think of how degraded Kasokwa is. We could easily follow the chimps in the trees and on the ground, as the undergrowth is not very thick. I became fast friends with the field assistants Justin and Joyce. Not only did I enjoy the serenity in the forest, but I really appreciated a hot running water shower! :)
I also visited Sonso, the main research station in the forest. I had to do habitat work for Zinta, what most people consider "hardship duty." Habitat work involves making a 1 km transect, plotting points every 5o m. At each point, a GPS is taken, and all trees in a 12.7 m radius are identified and measured by diameter at breast height. It is tedious and dirty work, especially in the rain! I had to crawl under vines, over logs, through lantana, and wade through a swamp.
So after 2 days of this, it was a treat to go out with the Sonso chimps. They are so well habituated and trusting; a group of at least 8 individuals laid down on the ground within 30 feet of where I sat for an hour long nap.
It was also refreshing to be among the intellectual company of other researchers for a few days, and to escape the village gossip (see below). Tony described to me the challenges and excitement of being involved in the Chimp Health Monitoring Program; Anya vented frustration over the moisture ruining expensive camera equipment, and meanwhile Mario detailed the findings of several Theory of Mind studies done with ravens.
I enjoyed my little vacation, but it helped me realize there is not place like 'home' in Kibwona. Though the forest is really more of a scrap heap of trees not wanted by loggers overgrown with invasive lantana species, the chimps more of a textbook case study on population bottleneck than a thriving community, and the villagers more reliant on witchcraft, myth and alcohol than education, banks and healthcare, living in Kibwona has been an incomparable experiences most primate researchers (or most people from developed nations) never have the chance to enjoy.
How could I forget passing by a small gathering only to find out it was tha town council deliberating how to deal with a man intending to kill 9 people accused of witchcraft? Or hearing of the antics of Mama Roddin's crazy sister hopping on one leg naked though the village? Or my personal favorite- the gummy alcoholic who tried to sell me a bag of his teeth so he could afford to quench his thirst.
The chimps, too, have been memorable, and this past week has been one of the best yet. I am able to get closer to them when they are on the ground--I have witnessed who makes the teeth clacking noise while grooming, whosteals sugar cane from others (Komuntu in both cases; how sugar cane is processed and shared with offspring; I have learned to recognize some voices and distinct pant hoots (Abooki wanting to raid sugar cane, Kangeye fleeing from insistent suitors); and I have laughed a the infants' energetic and curious playfulness, to their mothers' chagrin.
Most recently I watched Ajabu hang upside down by his feet and fall repeatedly on top of his mother Kakono sleeping in their nest. When she left the nest looking perturbed, Ajabu had a huge smile on his face and began bouncing in the nest balanced delicately on the flexible branches, reminding me of myself jumping on the bed as a youngster. Though I must reiterate that chimpanzees are APES, not monkeys, it also brought to mind the familiar refrain "No more monkeys jumping on the bed."
As the research comes to a close, I am sad to leave these chimps behind, their future uncertain in this forest caught between multiple avenues of human disturbance-- logging, hunting, farming (not to mention the lack of gene flow...). Will Kakono live to see healthy grandchimpies bouncing around? Ruhara, whose first son burned to death while caught crop raiding, and whose second son's hand is mutating into a uselesss claw because of a wire tightly wound around his wrist, recently gave birth to another baby; will the third time be the charm for her?
While it is difficult not to despair, there is reason for hope as researchers collaborate to find a solution, as Roots & Shoots groups in the area learn more about conserving forest resources, and as people around the globe become more aware of their personal impact.
-Katie
Friday, April 11, 2008
Great photo
Also- check out this great photo that Shannon took: http://aquasoulphotography.smugmug.com/gallery/4596798_BwpYr#275430459_MoTNq-A-LB
Im collecting data on Komuntu in this photo.
Im collecting data on Komuntu in this photo.
Feeling Better!
Hi Everyone,
Sorry for the delay in updates, I have been recovering from malaria. Last weekend I got retested, and there is no malaria parasite in my blood :) I feel SO much better now, and I am back to work every day.
Though this week I'm really taking a "vacation" to visit the other
sites where Zinta is collecting data. Zinta is the PhD student who selected me for this project. It is a comparative study of different forest sites, looking at the chimpanzee stress response to human impact on the forest. As you can imagine, Kasokwa, where I have been collecting data, is very disturbed. the other sites are Busingiro (heavily logged), Kaniyo-Pabidi (pristine forest used for ecotourism), and Sonso (logged in the 1960s, now used for scientific research only).
I visited Shannon at the
Kaniyo-Pabidi ecotourism site, which is so much nicer than where I am
in Kasokwa. There is a REAL forest there, with 87 chimps! there are so
many not all of them have names, so Shannon is having fun naming them
after herself, etc. To see a real pristine primary forest only makes
more clear just how degraded Kasokwa is; disappointing, really, that
people let the devastation go so far.
I am still trying to think of a good name for the new baby chimp in
Kasokwa- if I can ID the gender I get to pick a name. But the chimps
here are very dispersed lately, not traveling in a big group anymore,
and I havent seen Ruhara and baby in a while. It is the end of the dry
season, so food is scarce, and we often catch some of them raiding
sugar cane. I even saw one chimp cross the main road, where people
speed a lot, to raid the crops of the households on the other side!
(probably eating mangoes and cassava or peanuts, whatever he can
find).
It is raining a LOT- one day we got 9.6 cm (about 4 inches), and
yesterday we got rained out of the forest. We were sitting in the rain
for about an hour and it wasnt stopping, and the chimps had already
moved on, so field assistant Joseph and I just decided to go home for some hot
chocolate :) .
Tomorrow morning I will go to Sonso, the main research area where
Zinta herself has been collecting data. She is on vacation with her
parents in town, so I have to do habitat work for her. This is what
all volunteers consider "hardship duty"- cutting transects, measuring
tree diameters, determining species and phenology of all plants in 3
meter radius, etc. excessively slow and tedious work. (this must be
done at all the sites, except kasokwa, because there is not enough
forest to do a full 500-m transect; i guess i cant get off that easy
after all!)
But it should be fun to be in "camp" with the other researchers, as
many of them are from st andrews, or plan to attend in the fall, so i
can make some friends and get away from the village for a few days.
Also, sonso has a nice kitchen with a real oven, so ill go wild making
good food! Ive been joking that when i get home i will get so fat
eating all the foods i miss, haha.
Im still planning on my july 1 flight out (arriving at LAX on july 3).
Though Zinta has just alerted me of a big conservation conference in
Uganda on july 5, I think one conference will be enough this year- I
signed up for the one in Edinburgh (IPS) for Aug 3-8. I have a hostel,
and just need to research some flights. Shannon and I are still trying
to plan our travels together, and she intends to keep her may 31
flight, so we will have a month together, then i will have a month on
my own. I will probably spend most of that time with my friend Femke,
who lives in Botswana.
So far the VERY tentative plan is: April 30- goodbye party in Kasokwa.
Travel to Rwenzori mountains and/or queen elizabeth NP in Uganda. May
7 we are booked to see the gorillas in Bwindi. From there, will bus to
Kampala, then Nairobi. (Shannon departs from Nairobi). we will visit
masai mara, then charter a dhow trip through the Lamu islands off the
coast of Kenya (she loves to sail and snorkel). When she leaves, I
will continue south through Arusha/Dar es Salaam to see Arusha NP and
Zanzibar. I will take an overnight charter bus to Zambia to see
victoria falls, then cross the border into Botswana and do a mokoro
tour of the delta. Then I will stay with Femke in a wild dog camp in
Maun where she is working. This seems like a lot, but time flies when
you are having fun!
I miss you all very much! Love, Katie
Sorry for the delay in updates, I have been recovering from malaria. Last weekend I got retested, and there is no malaria parasite in my blood :) I feel SO much better now, and I am back to work every day.
Though this week I'm really taking a "vacation" to visit the other
sites where Zinta is collecting data. Zinta is the PhD student who selected me for this project. It is a comparative study of different forest sites, looking at the chimpanzee stress response to human impact on the forest. As you can imagine, Kasokwa, where I have been collecting data, is very disturbed. the other sites are Busingiro (heavily logged), Kaniyo-Pabidi (pristine forest used for ecotourism), and Sonso (logged in the 1960s, now used for scientific research only).
I visited Shannon at the
Kaniyo-Pabidi ecotourism site, which is so much nicer than where I am
in Kasokwa. There is a REAL forest there, with 87 chimps! there are so
many not all of them have names, so Shannon is having fun naming them
after herself, etc. To see a real pristine primary forest only makes
more clear just how degraded Kasokwa is; disappointing, really, that
people let the devastation go so far.
I am still trying to think of a good name for the new baby chimp in
Kasokwa- if I can ID the gender I get to pick a name. But the chimps
here are very dispersed lately, not traveling in a big group anymore,
and I havent seen Ruhara and baby in a while. It is the end of the dry
season, so food is scarce, and we often catch some of them raiding
sugar cane. I even saw one chimp cross the main road, where people
speed a lot, to raid the crops of the households on the other side!
(probably eating mangoes and cassava or peanuts, whatever he can
find).
It is raining a LOT- one day we got 9.6 cm (about 4 inches), and
yesterday we got rained out of the forest. We were sitting in the rain
for about an hour and it wasnt stopping, and the chimps had already
moved on, so field assistant Joseph and I just decided to go home for some hot
chocolate :) .
Tomorrow morning I will go to Sonso, the main research area where
Zinta herself has been collecting data. She is on vacation with her
parents in town, so I have to do habitat work for her. This is what
all volunteers consider "hardship duty"- cutting transects, measuring
tree diameters, determining species and phenology of all plants in 3
meter radius, etc. excessively slow and tedious work. (this must be
done at all the sites, except kasokwa, because there is not enough
forest to do a full 500-m transect; i guess i cant get off that easy
after all!)
But it should be fun to be in "camp" with the other researchers, as
many of them are from st andrews, or plan to attend in the fall, so i
can make some friends and get away from the village for a few days.
Also, sonso has a nice kitchen with a real oven, so ill go wild making
good food! Ive been joking that when i get home i will get so fat
eating all the foods i miss, haha.
Im still planning on my july 1 flight out (arriving at LAX on july 3).
Though Zinta has just alerted me of a big conservation conference in
Uganda on july 5, I think one conference will be enough this year- I
signed up for the one in Edinburgh (IPS) for Aug 3-8. I have a hostel,
and just need to research some flights. Shannon and I are still trying
to plan our travels together, and she intends to keep her may 31
flight, so we will have a month together, then i will have a month on
my own. I will probably spend most of that time with my friend Femke,
who lives in Botswana.
So far the VERY tentative plan is: April 30- goodbye party in Kasokwa.
Travel to Rwenzori mountains and/or queen elizabeth NP in Uganda. May
7 we are booked to see the gorillas in Bwindi. From there, will bus to
Kampala, then Nairobi. (Shannon departs from Nairobi). we will visit
masai mara, then charter a dhow trip through the Lamu islands off the
coast of Kenya (she loves to sail and snorkel). When she leaves, I
will continue south through Arusha/Dar es Salaam to see Arusha NP and
Zanzibar. I will take an overnight charter bus to Zambia to see
victoria falls, then cross the border into Botswana and do a mokoro
tour of the delta. Then I will stay with Femke in a wild dog camp in
Maun where she is working. This seems like a lot, but time flies when
you are having fun!
I miss you all very much! Love, Katie
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